ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2000 - 2006, part 1

No.


ANARCHY COOKBOOK VERSION 2006

Table of Contents

1. Counterfeiting Money
2. Credit Card Fraud
3. Making Plastic Explosives
4. Picking Master Locks
5. The Arts of Lockpicking I
6. The Arts of Lockpicking II
7. Solidox Bombs
8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
9. CO² Bombs
10. Thermite II Bombs
11. Touch Explosives
12. Letter Bombs
13. Paint Bombs
14. Ways to send a car to HELL
15. Do you hate school?
16. Phone related vandalism
17. Highway police radar jamming
18. Smoke Bombs
19. Mail Box Bombs
20. Hot-wiring cars
21. Napalm
22. Fertilizer Bomb
23. Tennis Ball Bomb
24. Diskette Bombs
25. Unlisted Phone Numbers
26. Fuses
27. How to make Potassium Nitrate
28. Exploding Lightbulbs
29. Under water igniters
30. Home-brew blast cannon
31. Chemical Equivalency List
32. Phone Taps
33. Landmines
34. A different Molitov Cocktail
35. Phone Systems Tutorial I
36. Phone Systems Tutorial II
37. Basic Alliance Teleconferencing
38. Aqua Box Plans
39. Hindenberg Bomb
40. How to Kill Someone
41. Phone Systems Tutorial III
42. Black Box Plans
43. The Blotto Box
44. Blowgun
45. Brown Box Plans
46. Calcium Carbide Bomb
47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell
48. Ripping off Change Machines
49. Clear Box Plans
50. CNA Number Listing
51. Electronic Terrorism
52. Start a Conf. w/o 2600hz or MF
53. Dynamite
54. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
55. How to Break into BBs Express
56. Firebomb
57. Fuse Bomb
58. Generic Bomb
59. Green Box Plans
60. Portable Grenade Launcher
61. Basic Hacking Tutorial I
62. Basic Hacking Tutorial II
63. Hacking DEC's
64. Harmless Bombs
65. Breaking into Houses
66. Hypnotism
67. Remote Informer Issue #1
68. Jackpotting ATM Machines
69. Jug Bomb
70. Fun at K-Mart
71. Mace Substitute
72. How to Grow Marijuana
73. Match Head Bomb
74. Terrorizing McDonalds
75. "Mentor's" Last Words
76. The Myth of the 2600hz Detector
77. Blue Box Plans
78. Napalm II
79. Nitroglycerin Recipe
80. Operation: Fuckup
81. Stealing Calls from Payphones
82. Pool Fun
83. Free Postage
84. Unstable Explosives
85. Weird Drugs
86. The Art of Carding
87. Recognizing Credit Cards
88. How to Get a New Identity
89. Remote Informer Issue #2
90. Remote Informer Issue #3
91. Remote Informer Issue #4
92. Remote Informer Issue #5
93. Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines
94. Ma-Bell Tutorial
95. Getting Money out of Pay Phones
96. Computer-based PBX
97. PC-Pursuit Port Statistics
98. Pearl Box Plans
99. The Phreak File
100. Red Box Plans
101. RemObS
102. Scarlet Box Plans
103. Silver Box Plans
104. Bell Trashing
105. Canadian WATS Phonebook
106. Hacking TRW
107. Hacking VAX & UNIX
108. Verification Circuits
109. White Box Plans
110. The BLAST Box
111. Dealing with the R&R Operator
112. Cellular Phone Phreaking
113. Cheesebox Plans
114. Start Your Own Conferences
115. Gold Box Plans
116. The History of ESS
117. The Lunch Box
118. Olive Box Plans
119. The Tron Box
120. More TRW Info
121. "Phreaker's Phunhouse"
122. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
123. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
124. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
125. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
126. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
127. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
128. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
129. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
130. Sodium Chlorate
131. Mercury Fulminate
132. Improvised Black Powder
133. Nitric Acid
134. Dust Bomb Instructions
135. Carbon-Tet Explosive
136. Making Picric Acid from Aspirin
137. Reclamation of RDX from C-4
138. Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels
139. Clothespin Switch
140. Flexible Plate Switch
141. Low Signature System [Silencers]
142. Delay Igniter From Cigarette
143. Nicotine
144. Dried Seed Timer
145. Nail Grenade
146. Bell Glossary
147. Phone Dial Locks -- Beat'em
148. Exchange Scanning
149. A Short History of Phreaking
150. "Secrets of the Little Blue Box"
151. The History of British Phreaking
152. "Bad as Shit"
153. Telenet
154. Fucking with the Operator
155. Phrack Magazine-Vol. 1, Issue 1
156. International Country Codes List
157. Infinity Transmitter Plans
158. LSD
159. Bananas
160. Yummy Marihuana Recipes
161. Peanuts
162. Chemical Fire Bottle
163. Igniter from Book Matches
164. "Red or White Powder" Propellant
165. Pipe Hand Grenade
166. European Credit Card Fraud
167. Potassium Bomb
168. Your Legal Rights
169. Juvenile Offenders' Rights
170. Down The Road Missle
171. Fun With Shotgun Shells
172. Surveillance Equipment
173. Drip Timer
174. Stealing
175. Miscellaneous
176. Shaving cream bomb
177. Ripping off change machines II
178. Lockpicking the EASY way
179. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude
180. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 1
181. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2
182. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3
183. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4
184. Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5
185. Explosives and Propellants
186. Lockpicking III
187. Chemical Equivalent List II
188. Nitroglycerin II
189. Cellulose Nitrate
190. Starter Explosives
191. Flash Powder
192. Exploding Pens
193. Revised Pipe Bombs
194. * SAFETY * A MUST READ!
195. Ammonium TriIodide
196. Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III
197. Black Powder III
198. Nitrocellulose
199. RDX
200. The Black Gate BBS
201. ANFOS
202. Picric Acid II
203. Bottled Explosives
204. Dry Ice
205. Fuses / Ignitors / Delays
206. Film Canister Bombs
207. Book Bombs
208. Phone Bombs
209. Special Ammunition
210. Rocketry
211. Pipe Cannon II
212. Smoke Bombs
213. Firecrackers
214. Suppliers II
215. Lab-Raid Checklist
216. Misc Anarchy
217. Combo Locks II
218. Misc Anarchy II
219. Thermite IV













1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger

Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor Man's James Bond".

If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!


2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger

For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.

Step One: Getting the credit card information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card example:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:

Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:

[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three: Testing credit

You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".

Step Four: The drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:

[1] An empty house

An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.

[2] Rent A Spot

U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for. End your space when the package arrives.

[3] People's houses

Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five: Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple of years. Good luck!


3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger

Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

1. A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2. A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3. A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4. Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0°C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.

Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.

You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:

Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762


4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger

Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is foolproof (for now).

5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger

Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks

While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene.

Automobiles:

Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so the Slim Jim will not work. So:

American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230

ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling.

Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:

Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801

LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling.

The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:

Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408

For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that will open more than 95% of all the cars around.

Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:

A MFG
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646

Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick Out tool.

If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588

VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a. tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set.

Updated Lockpicking:

For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows:

Normal Picking:

Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens.

Racking:

This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking.

Lock Aid Gun:

This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger.

Vibrator:

Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.

There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:

Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252

The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including government, high security, and medicos), although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds?

$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.

For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor, disk drive and software.

If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance...

The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard welding igniter. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and is available from:

C.O.L. MFG
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634

6. The Arts of Lockpicking II by The Jolly Roger

So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the "lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.

First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).

The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90°). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/

The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.

Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve with practice.

7. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger

Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.

Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at K-Mart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many military applications in the WWII era.

Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.

Making the mixture:

1. Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
2. The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.
3. Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.

It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox. You have been warned!

8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox - Rev.2 by The Jolly Roger

I. Introduction
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours.

The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow along.

II. Construction and Use
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not necessary for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the end of the green wire attach a green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone.

III. Beige Box Uses
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.) To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store. With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right).

Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.

Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some practical applications:

· Eavesdropping
· Long distance, static free, free fone calls to phriends
· Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
· Phucking people over
· Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
· Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
· Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line

Eavesdropping
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.

Dialing Long Distance
This section is self explanatory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA.

Dialing Direct to Alliance Teleconferencing
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception and are more difficult to come by.

Phucking People Over
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls. This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause of the problem.

Bothering the Operator
This is also self explanatory and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section, Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?

Blue Boxing
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not traced to your line...

IV. POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the Gestapo, and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recommend you:

· Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
· Use more than one output device
· Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS concerning your accomplishments)

In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output device, I recommend you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be displaced and you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded on your territory.